As esox anglers, we all know the importance of catch and
release to the future of our sport. Good intentions alone
donıt make for successful releases. If the esox doesn't
survive the release, wasted effort and fish flesh is the
result. There is no complete substitute for experience.
No doubt, the more fish you handle, the more efficient you'll
be at it. However, even beginners that have a plan can be
successful releasers. Sacred as these fish are to some of
us, they're just fish. Realistically, it's not entirely
necessary that the release be "pretty" as long
as it's effective.
Release
will usually be effective if you prepare for and practice
the basics. The preparation part is the most important.
Caring enough to prepare is the first step. Frankly, while
out on the water, I still see an alarming number of blatantly
mishandled releases. And these aren't incidental catches;
these are folks who are specifically fishing for pike or
muskie, and in many cases appear to be quite adept, mechanically.
For the future of our sport, we need to be adept at release
too.
Let's
start with tools. Proper tools are an absolute necessity.
I've handled over 3000 muskies and I'm not certain how many
pike, but many. Take away my tools and I can't even hope
to do it properly. The list of absolute necessities includes
long-nose pliers (the longer the better) and quality hook
cutters. Donıt even think about chasing esox without these
items in the boat, at a minimum. Strongly suggested additional
items include a large hookout tool, large landing device,
jaw spreaders, split-ring pliers and pre-sharpened replacement
hooks. Two of each of the absolutes is advisable, just in
case they are unintentionally bathed during the course of
the day's angling.
A
hookout tool is often real handy for getting into hard-to-reach
spots (hooks that are well inside the mouth or even to the
gullet). It can be hard to operate a standard pliers in
such situations. The right type of large landing device
would be strongly suggested to all but a few folks. Beginners
definitely need one. There are a handful of folks like my
good friend Doug Johnson (who has handled thousands of esox),
who prefers to, and is successful in handling all personal
releases at boatside without nets or cradles. For most though,
a landing device is much safer and much quicker.
We'll
get more in depth in future articles on landing devices,
but there are three basic types that I'm aware of (and I
know that trophy pike anglers in Europe have some too).
There are cradle devices (basically two long rods or splints,
with mesh between), the standard hoop landing net, and a
hybrid of the net and cradle, Frabill's Kwik Kradle. The
most important consideration for landing devices is size
and depth. They must be big enough to hold large fish; they
must have coated mesh to minimize tangling, slime removal,
and fin damage, and to prevent hook penetration. The mesh
MUST offer enough depth so that the fish can be left in
the water over the side of the boat. As much as possible,
hook removal and measurements need to be done with the fishıs
head in the water. Undersized
nets with untreated mesh should never be used. Jaw spreaders
can be very helpful in getting at hooks well inside a fish's
mouth. The jaw strength of larger esox is incredible. With
their jaws clamped shut, it's often tough to force them
open with anything other than spreaders. I am aware that
many pike enthusiasts are against spreader-use, because
they often poke additional holes in fish's jaws. But getting
the job done quickly is often more critical than the potential
for punctures that will eventually heal (input from the
readership is welcomed).
Popping
hooks with cutters is advisable, in many cases, to speed
up releases and make them safer for angler and fish. I seem
to go this route with increased regularity, and strongly
suggest it. Quality cutters should easily handle cutting
5/0 hooks. The long-handled Knipex cutters I use are far
superior to any I've found; they're strong and get into
tough-to-reach places best. Cutters should be used over
pliers and hookouts in many cases. Split-ring pliers and
pre-sharpened hooks in all standard sizes simply speed things
up, and get that hot lure going again. O.K., now I'll reveal
a bombshell. The most important factor in survival (that
many are unaware of or ignore) is that the head of the fish
breathes in water. With few exceptions, stress is what kills
esox. Stress is caused by several factors (including head
out of water), but ultimately, minimizing the time between
strike and release is most important, especially when water
temperatures are high.
Even
though I often hear stories of hooking causing death, with
the exception of ingested live bait rigs (delayed expiration),
mortality due to hooking
itself is minute. Certainly eyes can be damaged, and fish
will get hooked in the gills, and often bleed from the gills
due to hooking and/or blows to the gill plate. None of these
situations kill fish though. Quickly cut the hooks into
pieces (make sure all pieces fall out), get the fish (including
head) back in the water, and the bleeding will stop. As
far back as I can remember, having all the tools mentioned,
I've had only one fish die at the boat for every 400 muskies
released.
On
the downside, probably four fish per season experience eye
damage, likely resulting in blinding in that eye (which
won't kill them, but they'll likely never reach their growth
potential). In many cases though, this is likely a direct
result of excited anglers horsing fish. A combination of
multiple-hook lures and excessive pressure on fish is often
the cause of eye or gill hooking.
The
way the battle with esox is handled can have a lot to do
with the fishıs survival. Realize that there is some gray
area. But the goal is to land the fish as quickly as possible,
yet avoid too much pressure, which would cause the fish
to fight to its full potential for violence. An angler can
have more control in battle than most realize.
Steady,
but not excessive, pressure results in the fish tiring fairly
quickly, yet not getting extremely violent. A violent fight
results in much of the battle being waged out-of-water,
which significantly ups the odds of fish getting off or
snagging themselves in critical areas. Use tackle that will
handle the fish you are after. Although some consider it
sporting to use light tackle, simply put, that will significantly
lengthen the fight. A battle with an esox should never last
much longer than three minutes. Truth be known, many battles
last less than a minute. And that's good news for the fish.
Water
Release vs. Landing Device - This is a touchy subject, and
Esox Angler welcomes others' thoughts... but here's mine.
Inexperienced folks should handle all fish with some type
of proper landing device, mainly because it will definitely
be quicker and safer. One mistake often made, is attempting
to put the fish in the device too quickly. Don't attempt
this when a fish is still full of spunk, but just happens
to be near boatside. It will be obvious when they start
to tire; at this point lead them in head first and net or
cradle them.
Leave
the device and the fish in the water. The reason this is
safer, is that free hooks (those not in the fish) will usually
hang in the mesh. That's actually good, because the hooks
won't be landing in hands or in other areas of the fish.
Unless offending hooks are easily popped out via pliers,
simply cut all hooks. If they are badly tangled in the mesh,
in or near eyes or gills, or just buried deeply & cut
'em. If the fish's head had been held out of the water by
the mesh, at this point get it in the water and make certain
the fish is upright. You are ready for release or photo
and release.
Water
release can be very effective and safe too... Debra Johannesson,
good friend and great angler, recommends hand landing. This
method has been
very successful for her and some others; and she has some
strong reasons to handle esox in this fashion. But it's
my feeling that, for most, it should not be an exclusive
method (we will continue dialog on this issue with expert
anglers and fisheries personnel). Whether the angler is
experienced or not, multiple-hook lures offer strong potential
for an unwanted connection between fish and angler. I've
experienced it several times, and although it may help to
boost the fish's ego a little, it's definitely an unpleasant
experience for both.
Good
guidelines for most to follow: Unless the fish is hooked
on a single-hook lure, is intended to be released without
photo, and it appears the single treble or single hook can
easily be popped-out via pliers, a landing device may be
the quickest and safest way to go. Remember that in consideration
of all factors, faster is better.
Again,
keep in mind that the head section breathes. Even though
this fact may appear obvious, it seems to me it is largely
ignored by many during release most notably with water releasers.
I've witnessed many examples of folks who probably figure
they are doing the noble thing, and it turns out much worse
for the fish than
a landing device would be.
First
of all, the fish is fought significantly longer than it
would take to get it in a landing device. Nearing the end
of the fight, the fish's head is held out of the water.
Upward pressure continues (head out of water) while the
angler searches for and grabs tools... head remains out
for varying lengths of time for the unhooking. I've seen
this stage last as long as three minutes. Often the fish
is just badly hooked and the angler is skittish dodging
hooks and teeth, and/or the fish shakes every time an attempt
is made. A landing device immobilizes fish and usually pins
the head to mesh. It's just plain easier and safer to cut
hooks. On the other hand, many folks using landing devices
don't seem to make certain the business end of the fish
is in the water as much as possible either. It seems as
though people are satisfied with 3/4 of the fish in the
water, but if it's the part that doesn't breathe, it doesn't
matter.
I
also occasionally see folks put fish in a landing device
and then bring the whole mess into the boat. Never bring
any fish you want to release to the floor of the boat. They
will inevitably make a huge mess flopping around, beating
themselves up and stressing themselves to the limit. A dead
fish is likely to be the result. Don't do it. The basic
keys to success are: proper equipment to minimize fight
time, land the fish as quickly as possible, get the hooks
out as quickly as possible, get that fish's head in the
water immediately following hook removal. If photos are
to be taken before release, keep the fishıs head in the
water until the camera person is ready. Then quickly lift
for photos and release. Fifteen seconds is a good out-of-water
rule for photos; don't go beyond it. At least a 1/2 a dozen
shots can be taken during that time frame.
Be
prepared and it will go well! Have all the tools mentioned.
Have a plan in mind for who does what once a fish is on.
How will it be landed? Will you cut hooks on all but the
easy ones or cut hooks period? Keep its head in the water!
Are the cameras ready and does everyone in the boat know
how to use them? Do you know how to hold your esox?
The
final one is huge. Too many people get out there with no
idea of how they are to go about holding one of these fish
when they get one. There are a few different ways, and the
options are increased with small fish, but anglers fishing
for large esox need to know how to get a jaw hold on a big
fish. Certainly, if you've never caught one it's tough to
practice, but know what you need to do when you get the
opportunity. If at all unsure, have someone show you. Actually,
a mounted fish is a great tool for this. It's very important
to have a plan from start to finish.
How
exactly to pose with a fish is a very arguable subject too.
The basics though, are to support the weight of the fish,
as evenly as possible, with the other hand -whether it is
a horizontal, vertical or semi-vertical hold. Most importantly
though, obey the 15 second rule and get it done quick. This
is a subject that will be hammered on in every issue of
Esox Angler.
In-depth looks at all aspects of release will be covered.
Expect to hear more specific info on such topics as fighting
fish, landing fish, holding fish, how/where exactly to release,
live/dead bait use, solo landing and release, trolling,
slime removal and split fins. Any new important info will
be shared. We are all still learning.
Notice:
Reprinting, copying, internet posting or distributing this
article without permission of The Next Bite - ESOX Angler
Magazine is illegal.
Release
will usually be effective if you prepare for and practice
the basics. The preparation part is the most important.
Caring enough to prepare is the first step. Frankly, while
out on the water, I still see an alarming number of blatantly
mishandled releases. And these aren't incidental catches;
these are folks who are specifically fishing for pike or
muskie, and in many cases appear to be quite adept, mechanically.
For the future of our sport, we need to be adept at release
too. 
Undersized
nets with untreated mesh should never be used. Jaw spreaders
can be very helpful in getting at hooks well inside a fish's
mouth. The jaw strength of larger esox is incredible. With
their jaws clamped shut, it's often tough to force them
open with anything other than spreaders. I am aware that
many pike enthusiasts are against spreader-use, because
they often poke additional holes in fish's jaws. But getting
the job done quickly is often more critical than the potential
for punctures that will eventually heal (input from the
readership is welcomed). 
been
very successful for her and some others; and she has some
strong reasons to handle esox in this fashion. But it's
my feeling that, for most, it should not be an exclusive
method (we will continue dialog on this issue with expert
anglers and fisheries personnel). Whether the angler is
experienced or not, multiple-hook lures offer strong potential
for an unwanted connection between fish and angler. I've
experienced it several times, and although it may help to
boost the fish's ego a little, it's definitely an unpleasant
experience for both.