What's
Next for our Muskie Fisheries?
I've spent many seasons now as a
muskie angler and guide (to the point where I'd rather
not get specific). As a result, I've endured many a muskie
story. Of course, the bulk of these are of "the one that
got away" variety (specimens cited in the telling are
of extreme proportions). I've watched many a muskie shake-off,
not-get-hooked and even skillfully avoided as potential
captors managed to whisk-away their offering before snapping
jaws could close around them. It's as though they want
to save their respective purchases from the wear and tear
that coincides with such vicious, toothy attacks (which
I've never quite understood, since they're usually paying
me money to catch one of the silly things).
Quickly, I should admit that I've
had a few personal tales of my own. With all this said,
the subject of fighting muskies presents anglers, including
myself, with quest … to eliminate as many of the "one
that got away" stories as possible.
At least on a personal basis, it
makes a good goal. Let the other folks continue to lose
them if they like. This way there will never be a shortage
of "got away" stories to be told … assurance that dispensaries
of liquid-refreshment close to muskie waters will never
be boring.
While fishing muskie, I have yet
to see one make a run much over forty feet in length (average:
about 8 feet), nor have I met the fish (or think I will)
that I can't tire and land in less than 5 minutes (normally
far less) on normal muskie tackle. But hey, that's what
makes muskie fishers and fishermen in general so special:
active imaginations prompted ever so slightly by ego.
Now, back to the issue of avoiding
missed fish. In reality, avoiding this totally or recording
a 90% recovery per strike just isn't going to happen-at
least not with muskie. There is no doubt though, that
a significant dent can be put in the "loss" ratio by paying
attention to some details and learning to fight a fish
properly once hooked. There are many common mistakes I
see regularly, that can be easily avoided.
Let's take a look at some of these
common mistakes, and some better options, that will result
with more fish being brought to boat side. No tactic or
presentation tips here - just a strict study of the percentage
game to hopefully maximize the number of "hands-on" releases
as compared to the total number of strikes.
Equipment and Hookset
Now here's another arguable subject. Everyone has their
favorite gear; and 
some
folks are just more comfortable with certain lengths,
weights and actions when it comes to rods and other terminal
necessities. Comfort with your equipment is a factor that
should never be overrated. The hookset, itself, is of
great importance. If not executed properly, none of the
other stuff really matters … you never get that far. In
my mind, a good portion of successful "setting" is in
the equipment.
Beyond sharp hooks and fresh, strong
line, the issue is simply driving those hooks in to a
point where they will hold. Besides the corner of the
mouth, these critter's heads are nothing but a big "bone
box." I preach religiously about "snapping" the hookset.
Pulling hard (all too common) just doesn't cut it. It
may look impressive (briefly) because the rod loads nicely-but
it doesn't drive hooks. A quick, sharp snap is what drives
hooks.
Factors that will greatly diminish
this snap are light-action, no backbone rods and line
with any significant amount of stretch. We hear more about
longer rods every year for muskie fishing. You'll hear
it from me too. I love long rods. I think they allow me
to cast farther with less effort, work lures a better,
allow for a much better figure eight, and (the main issue
for this story) they allow you to fight fish better, ultimately
keeping more fish on.
The
key to long rods "working" for muskie fishing is a strong,
heavy butt section that tapers to a fairly fast tip. In
the Signature Series of rods that I designed for Bass
Pro Shops, my favorite rod is the 8 footer, and we are
currently working on an 8' 6". They match perfectly with
today's new super braid, low-stretch lines. Because these
lines have virtually no stretch, they help to create tremendous
"snap" on the hookset, but once a fish is hooked, a lack
of stretch becomes the enemy. Because the line offers
no shock absorption, the longer rod with that faster tip
does a much better job than the standard, shorter, pool-cue
type rod. When there is no "give", vicious head-shakes
really open up holes where hooks entered, and eventually
causing barbs to become useless.
Match the rod with a quality baitcasting
reel that features a reliable drag system. I'm proud to
say the Bass Pro Shops PQ3000 Pete Maina Signature Series
Reels fall into this category. When big muskies want to
move, they need to take line. Some folks like to disengage
the spool when fish are ready to run, "thumbing" the line
as it goes out. But going back and forth from engaged
to disengaged isn't as easy as it sounds. One slip could
spell disaster (a backlash). A reel with a good drag system
is actually the most consistent method of giving a little
line to a running "Ski".
A quality drag system should allow
you to tighten the drag to a point of almost total lockdown
(for hooksets) and with slight adjustments transfer to
medium tension. You want the reel's drag to let line out
"smoothly." When you have a good drag, it's the best way
to fight these fish. I go with the drag all the way these
days.
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