What's
Next for our Muskie Fisheries?
Many anglers have never even tried
live bait for any species. Where I come from in northwestern
Wisconsin, live bait use for musky is a tradition as old
as the sport itself. Generally, live bait use is common
in the spring, and almost standard procedure for most
muskie seekers in the fall. There are those that are either
disinterested in live bait use, or simply prefer other
tactics. There are also those within the muskie community
that are "dead-set" against live bait use.
These folks won't use it and, they
don't feel anyone else should be using live bait either.
I've been in the presence of, and once in a while involved
in, boisterous discussions on the "do's, don'ts and whys"
on the use of live bait. While I certainly don't agree
that live bait should never be used under any circumstances,
or that the use of live bait is, "unfair, unsporting and
only for 'lazy' people", one of the concerns anti-live-baiters
will offer is legit. That the use of live bait kills musky.
Unfortunately, I can't argue that point. They're dead
right!
Live bait has been a deadly way
of fishing for years in the fact that it can be more effective
than other methods, such as artificials, but also because
it can often result in delayed mortality with released
musky and other gamefish. Unfortunately, live bait use
is still killing muskies today! The percentage of loss
per caught fish may have dropped some, but it is still
substantial.
Does it have to be? No way! I am
absolutely, positively convinced that the way I now handle
live bait use is not only more effective for catching
musky than my old methods, it also is accomplished with
as close to 100% 'releasability' of musky as is possible.
Actually, there is less 'incidental' damage than is caused
by artificials, casting or trolling. In Europe, they have
monstrous northern pike that are being recaptured multiple
times (up to 10) on quickstrike live/dead bait rigs.
The first step is to get away from
the use of single hooks "swallow method" (basically waiting
for the fish to ingest the bait, hooking it in the stomach
or gullet most of the time). Quickstrike rigging MUST
be used exclusively to insure there is no mortality. We'll
discuss proper rigging and use of these rigs later, since
improper quickstrike use can be deadly too, but for now,
lets talk about some old myths regarding live bait use.
Almost immediately after catch and
release fishing became the norm, some concerned folks
started developing and using quickstrike rigging. We've
come a long way with these rigs, but one big problem with
the movement to quickstrike rigging was that many realized
poor hooking percentages. Because of this, many switched
back to the old reliable method of "let 'em swallow".
Uncertainty with these new rigs and their performance
stopped many from experimenting further.
As I guide, I used some pretty feeble
excuses in justifying my temporary switch-backs to old
ways. My excuses were my 'supposed' responsibility to
have my clients catch the maximum number of fish possible.
Then there's the excuse that quickstrike rigging is often
too gaudy, preventing all but the very active musky from
hitting. Oh, I also used to say that quickstrike rigs
just don't work with large live baits.
Well, the first excuse may have
some merit, but in reality, my job as a fishing 'teacher'
is more important. A big part of that to me is showing
respect for the resource. Teaching potentially fish-damaging
methods doesn't show much responsibility. Number two excuse
"may" have some merit, but I've found that with proper
rigging and smaller hooks it just isn't true (but makes
a good scapegoat on slow days). The third excuse has no
merit what so ever, really. I've since caught muskie using
20 inch baits with quickstrike rigging; I've also found
that it really requires three or four pound baits to interest
a trophy fish.
I can still remember a conversation
some years back with two Muskies Incorporated members
following one of our fall meetings. Basically, the conversation
involved the fact that I was still using single-hook,
swallow rigs on big suckers with my late fall clients
and was catching quite a few that way. They were telling
me, in as nice a way as they could (since we're friends),
that most of those fish were probably dying, and that,
as someone who has a direct influence on others' tactics,
I was providing a poor example.
I can recall assuring them that
this wasn't the case; that if you just clip the leader
off at the fish's jaw and let 'em go, they're fine. Those
hooks don't really do much damage inside the fish and
they deteriorate to nothing in as little as 10 days via
stomach acid. (Myth # 1) That was common thinking among
those of us still using single hooks. But did any of us
really know? I certainly had had my doubts, but had quickly
brushed them off. Thinking about the conversation with
my friends the next morning while on my way to pick up
my clients, my conscience was really gnawing at me.
Common sense told me that the old
"cut-the-leader-let-'em-go-and-they're-just-fine" theory
was a bunch of baloney. The fact that a 12/0 single hook
and 2 feet of leader material were just going to magically
disappear, causing no damage whatsoever in less than 2
weeks basically seemed impossible and, I'm certain it
is. I asked myself what I thought of having a couple 12/0
hooks and several feet of sevenstrand down my gullet.
The answer came easy.
So, I finally made up my mind to
stop it, period. No more second guessing, no more excuses,
quickstrike rigging only, and figure out how to get the
most I could from this method while making absolutely
certain nothing got swallowed by a musky. I figured this
was really the only way to go, to be honest with myself,
since I really felt I'd rather not catch the musky if
I knew killing it is a likely part of the bargain.
I've read about several studies
done on hooking mortality, mainly with northern pike.
The most recent involved striped bass. None of these studies
have shown anything positive about hooking, fighting,
then leaving the whole rig in the fish's stomach or gullet.
A few survive it, but most don't, and in every case in
these studies, the hooks involved were substantially smaller
than what is commonly used for muskie.
The 'theory' that it doesn't hurt
them is easily perpetuated, since release is easy and
fast (which is certainly desirable). Just snip the leader
material, take photos, and let 'em go. The fish easily
swims off, upright and under its own power. No blood ...
no foul ? until later.
In the striped bass study, one group
of fish were hooked in the gullet or stomach and released.
A control group with no hooks were monitored as well.
No surprise to me, the researchers found that big hooks
did not rust away in the "120 day" experiment (keep in
mind, musky hooks are bigger). Also, it was no surprise
that the fish from the control group that were hooked
began to die during stressful periods such as high water
temperatures. The fish that had no hooks were fine. The
researchers felt this delayed mortality was due to bacterial
infections associated with the wound from the still embedded
hooks. Regardless, the fish with hooks died and the others
didn't.
So, if your common sense doesn't
throw up a red flag for you, the studies should. It's
plain and simple. If you allow fish to swallow single
hooks, a good percentage of these fish die. Therefore,
if we are staunch in our catch and release ethic, we should
avoid allowing musky to swallow hooks at all costs.
Can quickstrike rigging work as
well as the old swallow method? Actually, if you make
the effort to do it right, it works much better! In addition,
no time is wasted waiting and wondering if the fish has
swallowed yet. One thing few consider is how valuable
20 to 30 minutes can be spent waiting to make sure the
fish swallows. If you've done even a "little" muskie fishing,
you've noted distinct, often short feeding windows. While
you are waiting for a fish to swallow (and likely die
from it). How many other strike have you missed out on?
So, you've missed those opportunities on the other fish,
plus there's still a good chance you won't get the one
you've been waiting for!
Proper Quickstrike Rigging
This may be old news to some of you since myself and a
few others have said it before, but, if the hook system
is not rigged so that it will "rip-free-from-the-bait"
on the hookset, you won't hook the fish, PERIOD! This
is, without a doubt, the number one reason people fail
with quickstrike rigging. Usually the hooks are rigged
too heavily into the bait, or, due to stretchy line, whippy
rods and wimpy hooksets (or all of the above), the rig
does not pull from the bait.
There is nothing simpler. If the
muskie still has the live bait crosswise in its mouth
after the hookset, it's not hooked and your system is
not working! Think ahead and choose good rigs. Some rigs
are really gaudy. The majority currently in the marketplace
use an adjustable "front hook" on the leader material,
either a treble or a single. They can work if rigged lightly.
But, a method my friend Steve Herbeck
pioneered, attaching the stinger hook system to the leader
material via a crosslock snap, held in place by a small
rubber band through the live bait's nasal passages is
simply the best for several reasons. This way if the muskie
has turned the bait into its gullet before the hookset
(possible if strike isn't immediately detected, or if
purposefully wait too long), there is no front hook to
damage the fish. Most hungry fish will swallow ASAP. The
half-hour play period is simply a myth. I've held fish
close enough to the boat so I could see them eat it. They'll
do it in as little as 10 seconds.
Set the hook IMMEDIATELY following
the strike. This insures the fish will not ingest the
hook system and results in the best hooking percentages
(more later).
If a quickstrike system with a front
hook on the leader system is used, place front hook in
the meat of the cheek rather than the bony cartilage of
the upper lip. This will rip out easier (remember to put
a piece of rubber inner tube over barb of front hook to
prevent it from falling out). However, Herbeck's rubber
band system is the best way to attach the stinger hook
system.
The rubber band system just hooks
better. It is also simply a much cleaner system, allowing
the bait to swim much more naturally and in general less
gaudy. Herbeck has his version of this rig offered by
bait rigs. Musky Mania Tackle also has a rig called the
"Lift-Off" (a little different) that I designed using
Steve's idea.
There are many different ideas on
how to properly rig the stinger hooks. There are two considerations,
one of which few consider. The hooks must rip free easily;
odds are better if something is done to prevent the treble
from re-burying in the live bait on the set (musky won't
get hooked). This is one of the reasons I bend one of
the three hook points of a 'stinger' treble ninety degrees
to the side. This becomes the designated hook to stick
into the bait. Simply slide this hook point under the
skin and back out (as in diagram/photo). The angle of
this bent hook point not only assures that it cannot get
stuck in the bait (will easily rip free), it also acts
as a pivot, keeping the other two hook points from sticking
in the bait when a muskie crunches it.
I prefer to stick with one stinger
hook on baits (usually suckers) under 14 inches and a
two-stinger system for baits 14 inches and longer. When
using a two-stinger system, stagger the length of the
stingers from the bait's head (photo/diagram).
Handling the Hookset
This is simple. Some confusion results from differing
opinions regarding handling the set. Everyone claims his
or her way is right. I've tried it all, and there's no
way to say this without sounding unbelievably egotistical,
but it needs to be said for the good of the fish. So,
What follows is the information for THE RIGHT WAY to handle
a strike:
Set the hook immediately with the
fish angling away from you. If when you grab the rod,
the fish is taking line out, drill 'em with a nice, quick
'snap-set' in the opposite direction. If they are sitting
still or coming at you when you get the rod, (with the
rod tip low so you're ready to set) start putting pressure
on the fish, and continue to increase it until fish reacts
against it. You will be able to feel it. The fish will
turn away, possibly shaking. That's exactly what you want.
Quickly drop the rod tip to create a little slack and
hammer 'em! Have confidence in what you are doing and
do it. Don't sit around wondering if it's time. If the
angle is right when you grab the rod, set it. If it isn't,
create the angle through force and set!
There are those who will tell you
to wait. You may think it's a good idea after missing
one. It's not. I've found that out through countless experiences.
Let's consider, what can possibly be gained by waiting?
A swallowed rig? The musky will either immediately swallow
or start munching. The stinger hooks 'could' remain in
the proper position, but with enough chewing, will likely
be smashed into the bait or ripped out. Either way rendered
worthless. The fish may move its grip to the tail after
being poked by a hook; or it may just drop the bait after
being poked repeatedly. Or, they swallow it! There are
no advantages here.
Conclusion
Live bait can be very effective. It is one of my better
tools. But used improperly, it's deadly, and it's time
we all accepted that fact and make adjustments to avoid
it. It's very cut-and-dried with no gray area here. Use
a quick strike rig properly and catch more fish with 100%
releasability, or let a fish swallow any kind of hook
and VERY likely kill it.
There is not near the awareness
there should be regarding this problem. Old traditions
sure die hard. It sure took me way too long. Educated
anglers, guides, speakers, resort and tackle shop owners
and anyone in a position to influence should be concerned
enough to try to eliminate any further unintentional musky
mortality via live bait use.
