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Tip
Index
Be
Efficient When Night Fishing for Muskies
Casting
Safety
Check
Hook Placement on Spinners
Crankbait
Depth Control for Muskies
Hook
Setting with Live Bait for Muskies
Polarized
Sun Glasses Help You See Fish!
Good
Esox Net Technique
Speed
Kills Muskies
Keep
Their Heads Up!
The
Surface is an Edge
Topwaters
and Your Eyes
Puffing
Triggers More Muskies!
Patterning
Muskies in Wind
Rod
Weight Balancing Systems
Use
Long Rods for Muskies 
All
tips courtesy of: 
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Polarized
Sun Glasses Help You See Fish!
When
it comes to quality polarized sunglasses, it’s
like going Esox angling without long-nose pliers and quality
hook cutters—if you don’t have ‘em—don’t go!
Polarized glasses are an absolute must for any good Muskie or
Pike fisher. When a fish has a very high propensity to
“check out” their prey before striking, it is extremely
important to know of their presence behind an offering as soon
as possible so triggering moves can be made (Figure Eight,
etc.).
Get
quality glasses to protect your eyes and to see fish. For spotting Muskies, to me, Ocean Wave Sunglasses in
the Backwater Green color are the best by far. Learn to
concentrate on that water behind and below lures, looking for
approaching shapes.
Be
Efficient When Night Fishing for Muskies
Night fishing for Muskie is really no
different than daytime, but a few little things in preparation
make for efficiency. It’s a good idea to put away all lures
that may be laying around, since they’re hard to avoid in
the dark. Have only the lures you intend to use out and I like
to have these pre-rigged on separate rod and reel combos.
Make certain there is a headlamp for every
angler. Hands free lighting is a must to handle simple tasks
like freeing weeds, handling backlashes and landing fish. Put
strips of glow tape on all hard-bodied plugs and strips on
bucktail blades or around the shaft. Charge these every
fifteen minutes or so-so you can see lures as they approach
the boat and do good figure eights or "O’s".
Know exactly where release tools and landing
devices are. It’s a good idea to put the boat landing on
your GPS too. It's easier to get lost in the dark than you
think!
Crankbait
Depth Control for Muskies
Depth control is a big issue in Muskie
fishing. As a general rule over structure-it’s usually most
effective to keep lures close to it. One thing many folks
don’t realize, is that twitching crank baits is more than
just a triggering mechanism. With nearly all cranks, this is a
way to control depth as well.
Each lure is different, and practice and
experimentation are needed to find how lures react, but
varying degrees of twitching with cranks will keep lures
higher when desired. When hard-twitching deep divers like the
Ernie, it is possible to keep the lure running a couple feet
below the surface until an edge is reached and the lure can be
driven down. Try this with your cranks. It makes these lures
more versatile. Also, with more buoyant lures, simple pauses
can not only trigger, but also control depth.
Check
Hook Placement on Spinners
I always warn folks to watch for quality in
their lure choices for big esox. Lures and equipment must be
able to hold up to big toothy fish. What few folks consider
though, is hook placement on lures. Choose baits that have
hooks where they’re most likely to actually hook something.
 In-line
spinners and spinnerbaits often come with hooks well hidden in
the lure body (hair or rubber). As big as they are, big muskie
and pike will often nip and slash at the back end of spinners,
possibly testing their potential meal. Make certain your baits
have hook points that align approximately with the end of the
body material. Otherwise, you’ll miss fish.
Hook
Setting with Live Bait for Muskies
There
can not be enough emphasis on the importance of using
quickstrike rigging for live bait with esox and immediate
setting. To get the utmost in hooking percentages though,
it’s important to have very heavy superbraid line (minimum
of 80lb. test) and a rod that will handle the collision.
Create slack for more snap in the hook set.
Get as much snap as possible, by letting the rod load up
slightly (fish moving away) and then quickly drop the rod tip
to create slack, then let ‘em have it. If the fish is not
moving away, what works great is to immediately start the
outboard and park on top of the fish as quickly as possible.
They will move and when they do give them the snap set.
The
Surface is an Edge
I heard the statement first from great
muskie anglers and Esox Angler Magazine writers, Dick Pearson
and Dan Craven. They said "the surface is an edge."
 It’s
the reason topwater lures can be so effective for muskie, pike
and other species. Predators have success, and remember it,
because they often are able to catch fish right at the
surface. The prey has run out of real estate. With this in
mind, consider that with any shallow-running lures - this can
be a triggering factor. Some baits, like most cranks, don’t
have the capability, but spinners do and so do most glider
jerk baits. If you see a following fish, buzz that spinner up
to the surface so it’s breaking water. This is also my
standard move now with my Magic Maker glide bait. I simply
pick up the pace with twitches, get my rod angle higher …
and it turns into a surface lure. This triggers lots of
strikes.
Puffing
Triggers More Muskies!
 This
is a tremendous little tip for use with spinners-that is
easy-and I really believe increases strikes. Whether in-line
or blade-above-body types, most folks retrieve their spinners
straight in. These are straight retrieve baits right?
Some folks will jig spinnerbaits, but in
general, a speed is picked and the bait is brought in.
Regardless of skirt material, I always "puff" a
spinner on the way in. Basically, I go twice as fast on part
of my revolution with the reel handle-on the front side as
compared to the back. This way, the retrieve is always mildly
erratic. The skirting material is always moving, and appears
to be breathing. Try it.
Good
Esox Net Technique
 Of
course, it’s true for all fish species, but knowing how to
properly use a net is important when it comes to big Musky and
Pike. Head-first is an important point in netting. But to me,
more important is stressing one
consistent movement with net, cradle or cradle/net cross.
Sticking
the landing device in the water and hoping the fish swims in
it only works once in a while. Netting should be one
consistent movement that starts with the fish coming to you
head-first … when the fish is the length of the net handle
away, drive the hoop down below the fish and forward. When the
front of the net is getting to the back of the fish, start the
swing up and continue the movement until the
entire net hoop is above water. Pull the hoop to the
boat’s gunnel and start the release process. I can’t
stress enough that netting is one, smooth, consistent
movement.
Speed Kills Muskies
I realize the title
sounds dangerous. And it is for Esox species. A very basic-yet
extremely effective trigger for artificials is speed in
general and  increased
speed to trigger following fish.
Especially so during
the warm water period, but even in cooler surface
temperatures, speed should be tried as a potential trigger
casting or trolling. Pick up that pace when no action is noted
… retrieve or troll faster than normal.
For following fish,
and especially with any spinner type lure, speed up the
instant you notice a fish behind … make them certain it is
fleeing to get away. Always zig-zag and speed up at the end of
every retrieve. You will trigger more fish.
Keep
Their Heads Up!!!
When
we talk of practicing effective releases for Esox, we always
hear of pliers, cutters, the proper nets … all very
important. But, how often is it stressed that the head of the
fish is the part that breathes.
Sounds
silly, but I see water releases—with rod held high while
searching for tools (pulling fish’s head out of the water)
and then head held out for removing or cutting hooks… then
from there the fish are lifted for photos. I see folks keep
fish in the water in large nets at boat-side, and all of the
fish is in the water but the head. The head breathes—from
mouth through gills. During all stages of release, please keep
the head in the water as much as possible.
Casting
Safety
Safety,
while Musky and Pike fishing, is a big issue, simply because
of the size of the lures and hooks associated with them (hooks
that by the way should be razor sharp), which can create
obvious problems. One of the biggest issues is safety when
casting. There is nothing scarier for me, after years of
guiding and being walloped a few times (see photo)  –
than to be in the boat with what we lovingly call a
“sidewinder”. Learn to cast overhead. Do not swing to the
side. This can cause nothing but problems. Be aware too, that
overhead casting is very safe when casting at 90-degree
angles, but change that angle significantly and there is
potential trouble.
Also,
be careful when reeling in big cranks while trolling. Many
folks have been impaled because someone was too boisterous
cranking in a lure with a moving boat. Go slow as the lure
nears the surface and “lift” it out. And, make certain you
have those hook cutters in case accidents do occur.
Topwaters
and Your Eyes
Talk
topwater lures and you often hear “don’t set until you
feel them.” Yeah … but. That little rule has haunted me
for years while guiding and fishing with others. I hate to
count the numbers of times I’ve seen a “top” water lure
under the surface, moving forward and at varying angles to the
side, amongst a general disturbance in the area. No hookset is
forthcoming. Usually, too late, I holler … I hear “but I
didn’t feel ‘em.” Use your eyes! Muskie and pike
nearly always attack topwater from behind. They are moving
forward. Often, their momentum is such upon “taking” the
lure that there is nothing felt … only slack. Don’t let
the “rule” hurt you. If you see a floating lure under –
set. You may want to crank “fast” until you feel them, but
if you know they have it – set. At night, you can’t see.
Simple policy is: if you feel ‘em – set. No feel upon
hearing the noise … crank fast and set on feel … no feel
in a few seconds … resume normal retrieve.
Patterning
Muskies in Wind
Wind
can be a very effective patterning tool. It’s not always a
factor, but when present, definitely something to pay
attention to. The general rule you hear is to get in the wind.
"Fish the windy side" is promoted by many. Often
this is true, but try not to get caught in a rut. Rather than
accepting a rule, pay attention to wind and how fish may be
reacting on a particular day.
Sometimes the pattern can be the lee side,
especially if the wind just switched. Fish don’t immediately
race to the other side of a lake or structure the instant the
wind switches. Sometimes the lee side is good because it moves
heavy algae out. It may be the classic-fish the windy side of
the reef and the windy shores. Great. Go with that pattern
that day. But I’ve seen too, where "edges" of wave
action are key. Look for the daily pattern.
Rod
Weight Balancing Systems
The
first I heard of rod weight balancing systems, it made some
sense but I guessed it likely didn't make a lot of difference
with the heavy gear we use for muskies. In reality, it makes
more difference with bigger gear, greatly reducing wear and
tear on forearms, wrists and digits.
 My
signature series line of muskie rods through Bass Pro Shops
includes a weight balancing system as standard equipment. And
balancing systems can be added to rods. Simply attach the
average weight lure that you will be using for a particular
rod and reel system to the leader, and then, holding the rod
where you normally do during a retrieve (some palm the reel
and some hold in front), simply use the right amount of weight
to balance things out. You will note the feel of better
balance right away. At the end of a long day you'll really be
able to tell.
Use
Long Rods for Muskies
It seems the trend in rod
length for many species is going longer. For muskie and
northern pike anglers, longer is certainly better. Previously,
shorter rods were just the standard, but it was also thought
you needed to have a "pool cue" action in order to
get the necessary hookset for bony mouths.
Today’s superlines have
virtually zero stretch, meaning longer rods with faster
actions actually provide for the best hooksets, while super
stout actions are now counterproductive, creating too much
shock during battle. Longer rods cast much better too, but
most importantly allow for better figure 8’s or O’s at
boatside, increasing the percentages of strikes by allowing
wider and longer turns. They also offer better control while
fighting fish. These days I use rods from 7’ 6" to 8’
6" in length.
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